Cheers

Cheers

The Beverage Business Magazine for Full-Service Restaurants and Bars

  • Beverage Trends
    • Beer
    • Wine
    • Spirits
    • Wine Reviews
    • Marketing
    • Operations
  • Recipes
    • What I’m Drinking Now
    • Submit a Drink Recipe
  • Resources
    • eRNDC Login
    • SG Proof Login
    • CORE: Children of Restaurant Employees
  • Events & Awards
    • Cheers Beverage Summit
    • Growth Brands
    • BevX Awards
    • Supplier Awards
  • Podcasts
  • E-News
    • E-News Subscribe
  • Digital Issues
  • Cheers@Home

Small Country, Big Wine

10/15/2015

by: Kyle Swartz

Portugal is the relative size of Maine. Nevertheless, the country contains the ninth largest total vineyard area in the world. It also ranks eleventh globally in wine production, and eighth in per-capita wine consumption.

IMG_2515

A tasting of 10 Portugal wines.

Portugal natives love their wine, and in turn produce some seriously good bottles.

This past Tuesday, I toured the country’s vineyards and varietals. I did not take a plane there but a subway, with the final destination my seat at the Wines of Portugal master class at City Winery in Manhattan. The class was led by Evan Goldstein, of easygoing humor and extraordinary wine knowledge.

Portugal runs between the western edge of Spain and the Atlantic Ocean. Naturally, there is difference between grapes grown closer to the coast versus more inland. Nearer seaside, where rainfall is higher, whites tend to be brighter, with a hint of salt, crunchier acidity and lower ABV; “Liquid electricity,” as Goldstein described them.

Farther inland, wines are more structured, less austere. They become richer and sweeter. These include the world-famous ports of the Douro region.

IMG_2519

The inimitable Evan Goldstein.

Though not all inland reds are so heavy. The Wines of Portugal class encompassed 10 wines, the ninth of which — the 2012 Poeira Tinto — was restrained and elegant. A “field blend” of reds, it focused on freshness, acidity, and layered nuances. The wine was made from vines aged between 5 and 70 years.

Advertisement

Olga Martins, Co-Proprietor of the Poeira estate in Douro, was one of many Portugal winemakers on hand to talk about their products. She compared the 2012 Poeira Tinto to a person in a room who is interesting not for their loud personality but their calmness, intellect and observations. It was an apt metaphor for a quietly complex wine.

Top-level female winemakers like Martins are common to Portugal, Goldstein explained, as are “field blends.” In general, blends are the dominant style. Most wines we sampled were a mix of multiple grapes, up to seven.

IMG_2529

Olga Martins, Co-Proprietor of the Poeira estate in Douro.

This high degree of blending, plus the Portugal grapes unusual to the American palate, made for some funky aromatics and tastes. Especially in the 2011 Campolargo Rol Coisas Antigas Tinto and 2009 Mouchão Tinto. They had earthy, highly toned notes.

Overall, the traits most among Portugal wines were balance and acidity. Particularly the former. Wines we sampled were diverse in style and composition, but unified in their palate-pleasing balance.

After the class we went next door for the showcase of Portugal wines. Hundreds of bottles were available for tasting. I beelined to the Poeira booth. Goldstein recommended we try some Douro whites, and I wanted to see if Poeira could match the elegant nuance of its red with a white.

What Martins poured me — Pó de Poeira White — did not disappoint. Again, elegant, layered, soft-spoken, and balanced. Portugal wine lives up to its reputation, and is well worth getting your hands on. Next time, maybe I’ll be lucky enough to skip the subway and take a plane.

Share this:

  • Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)

best Portugal wines Douro Douro whites Douro wine Douro wine region Evan Goldstein evan goldstein portugal evan goldstein portugal wine evan goldstein wine how is Douro region how is Douro wine how is portugal wine Olga Martins Olga Martins Poeira Olga Martins portugal Olga Martins wine Olga Martins winemaker Portugal wine Portugal wines what are Portugal wines what are some Portugal wines what is Douro wine wine wines wines of portugal

Last modified: 10/15/2015

Previous Story:
Diageo Continues to Shed Major Wine Assets
Next Story:
How Mia Wines Gives Drinkers What They Want

About the Author: Kyle Swartz

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Follow Us

Facebook
Twitter

In The News

  • KISS Celebrates 50th With Cold Gin Cocktail Special
  • Diageo Acquiring Don Papa Rum
  • San Francisco Cocktails Celebrate Mean Girls The Musical
  • NYC’s Mister Paradise Unveils New Menu
  • How Much Do Alcohol Consumers Care About Sustainability?
  • Podcast: Beverage Alcohol Trends For 2023
More News >>

Featured Drink

  • Red Dragon
    Red Dragon cocktail

Drink Recipes

  • A Round of Valentine’s Day Cocktails for 2023
  • Red Dragon
  • Year of the Rabbit
  • Viva Magenta Colored Cocktails
  • Winter White Sangria

Current Issue

Cheers Current Issue

Cheers Magazine

  • About Cheers
  • Advertise
  • Contact Us
  • Subscribe
  • Market Research

Events & Awards

  • Beverage Excellence Awards
  • Cheers Beverage Summit
  • Growth Brands Awards

Magazines

  • Cheers
  • Beverage Dynamics
  • StateWays
  • Beverage Wholesaler
  • Beverage Handbooks (research)

E-Newsletters

  • Better Bartending
  • Cheers
  • Beverage Dynamics
  • StateWays
  • Beverage Wholesaler
  • Beverage Universe
  • Cannabis Regulator
  • About EPG Brand Acceleration
  • Send File
  • Privacy Policy
© Cheers Magazine. All rights reserved.