This year, Cheers will be presenting the selections of our wine panel organized not by varietal or region, but by price. At a time when sourcing good quality wines at value prices is increasingly difficult, we think it’s particularly useful to share the insights of our panel and spread the word that wines can be appreciated at any price point. This month, the panel looks at white wines with a retail price around $15 and under. Later this year, we will climb the price ladder for reds and whites. As always, these selections include brief tasting notes, a numerical rating and the wine’s suggested retail price (which varies market to market).
FIVE STARS
***** (95) 2003 Messmer Riesling Halbtrocken, Pfalz (Germany). Fresh floral/citrus aromas lead to ripe flavors of peach, apricot and melon with just a touch of sweetness; crisp and clean on the finish. ($13, liter)
***** (94) 2003 Domaine Luquet St. Veran, Burgundy (France). This estate-bottled chardonnay from the value-driven village of St. Veran in Burgundy is simply outstanding; the Luquet family uses no oak and lets the vibrant ripe apple, pear and citrus flavors shine through on to the long, crisp finish; pair with broiled scallops or Crab Imperial ($14.99)
***** (94) 2001 Weingut Merz Ockenheimer St. Rochuskapelle Silvaner Kabinett Trocken (Germany). A slightly spicy characteristic with a bit of minerality; delicate aromas of raisin, peach and apricot lead to rich, ripe flavors throughout the palate; finishes with lively, refreshing acidity. ($12)
***** (93) 2003 Ronco dei Pini, Pinot Grigio (Italy). From the finest region in Italy for Pinot Grigio, Collio, this one’s got no shortage of flavor. Racy acidity and minerally lime notes keep the deeper background flavors of melon and pear lively and incredibly fresh. ($15)
***** (93) 2002 Geysler Weinheimer Holle Silvaner Halbtrocken (Germany). Zesty and lively with a spicy floral nose; tangy fruit flavors linger through the finish; off-dry; a great match with Asian cuisine. ($12)
***** (92) 2003 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier (California). This delightful blend is the ideal alternative white wine; very floral and aromatic bouquet that seems to fill the room when first opened, and full of crisp, fresh juicy flavors; good depth and concentration; a dimension of length and complexity. ($13)
***** (92) 2003 Neil Ellis “Sincerely” Sauvignon Blanc (South Africa). A tribute to Sancerre; flavors of lime, mango, peach and gooseberry; perfect for oysters. ($15)
***** (92) 2004 Spier Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape South Africa). Notes of tropical and citrus fruits with herbal essences shine through on both the nose and palate courtesy of both an oak-free fermentation process as well as the vineyard’s maritime influences from the West Cape; well balanced with a clean, refreshing and lengthy finish, this is a perfect wine to serve with shellfish or crabcakes. ($10.99)
***** (92) 2004 Allan Scott Riesling, Marlborough (New Zealand). Lemon/lime skins, loads of slate and minerals; zingy acids and just the slightest touch of residual sugars on the finish. ($15)
***** (92) 2003 Inama Soave Classico (Italy). Nose of sweet field flowers; a distinct almond finish; 100% garganega and a great expression of it. ($13)
***** (92) 2003 Loimer “Lois” Gruner Veltliner (Austria). Spicy, white pepper, smoky mineral flavors and aromas. ($12)
***** (92) 2001 Louis Latour Pouilly Vinzelles “En Paradis” (France). Top-quality French chardonnay at a great price; medium-bodied; clean fruit-forward hints of pear; supple, easy finish. ($12)
***** (92) 2003 Borgo Magredo “Mosaic” Pinot Grigio, Friuli (Italy). Beautiful freshness of mineral, honey and apple with lively acidity followed by a long mineral finish. ($15)
FOUR STARS
**** (91) 2003 Goulaine Vouvray (France). Flavors of peaches and melons; fabulous value; goes with any food. ($9)
**** (91) 2003 Nigl Gruner Veltliner (Austria). Crisp and lively with a tremendously aromatic bouquet marked by apples and pears; bright acidity upfront; in the mouth displays layers of flavors that carry through from first sip to last swallow. ($13)
**** (91) 2001 Argyle Chardonnay (Oregon). Pale yellow, with a golden hue; rising bread dough, with a tangerine and peach border; refreshing, crisp white melon and orange sherbet, finishing clean. ($11)
**** (91) 2003 Prospero ‘Tempest’ Meritage (California). A delightful white meritage blended from chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier; full-bodied, with hints of honey, green apple and wild flowers; matches well with seafood or tomato-based dishes. ($11)
**** (90) 2003 Chateau L’Ermitage Nimes Blanc (France). Fantastic estate bottled juicy white blend that is packed with peach, apricot and hints of pear. The white floral aromas are interesting, but it is the crisp fresh finish that makes this the perfect aperitif wine. ($9.99)
**** (90) 2002 Cave L’Aurance St. Veran (France). All chardonnay with a smooth and delicate middle and long, satisfying finish showcasing the rich and creamy apple-like notes with a honey and fig backbone; perfect with steamed mussels and pan-seared tuna. ($13)
**** (90) 2002 Fabio Coser Vigna del Lauro Pinot Grigio (Italy). A pinot grigio the Italians drink, with flavors of apricot and melon; lots of flavor. ($15)
**** (88) 2003 Folie a Deux, Ménage a Trois White (California). A blend of chardonnay (46%), muscat (38%) and chenin blanc (16%) that’s surprisingly delicious; plenty of fruit without becoming sweet; medium to full bodied; a nice aperitif. ($11)
**** (90) 2002 MacMurray Russian River Valley Pinot Gris (California). More character than pinot grigio with hints of honeysuckle and apricots in the nose with a supple texture balanced off by a fine spine of acidity with a finish that lingers on long after you have swallowed. ($14)
**** (90) 2004 Familia Aranda, Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc (Argentina). This blend successfully adds enough fruit to qualify the wine as semi-dry; good for spicier dishes or as an aperitif; an exciting, inexpensive alternative to pricier riesling or Vouvray. ($5)
**** (90) 2001 Chateau de Maligny Petite Chablis (France). Pristine as a cool mountain stream, sporting crisp citrus and mineral elements designed with shellfish in mind. ($15)
**** (89) Sokol Blosser Evolution #9 (Oregon). Nine different unknown varietals; a lush, off-dry, somewhat tropical wine with a crisp finish. ($15)
**** (89) 2002 Ch. Maligny Petite Chablis (France). Pure, clean and ripe with a subtle grassy tone; hints of pear and honey; hints of vanilla on the finish. ($15)
**** (89) 2003 Dr. Loosen Riesling (Germany). Classic example of the now-famous 2003 German vintage; flavors of peach, pear and honeysuckle team well with a soft touch of acidity. ($12)
**** (89) 2001 Jepson Viognier (California). Citrus-laced chamomile and white peach lure; clean and crisp flavors of white peach and lemon, picks up a grassy edge on the finish. ($15)
**** (89) 2003 Kano Chenin Blanc (South Africa). Great acidity; bright and crisp with a touch of sweetness; tropical melon and citrus flavors; matches well with seafood. ($10)
**** (88) Barefoot Cellars California Sauvignon Blanc, NV (California). Fresh and smooth; light citrus flavor; a well-made, fun wine at a decent value. ($6)
**** (89) 2002 Pierre Sparr, One (Alsace). Subtle floral tones, with lychee and lemon curd accents; light, almost weightless, with a medley of citrus and white grapefruit; finishing dry, crisp and steely. ($10)
**** (89) 2004 Yalumba Y Series Viognier (Australia). Aromas of honeysuckle and apricot; a ripe, rich palate with citrus and tropical fruit flavors. ($10)
**** (89) 2003 Peace Family Chardonnay (Australia). Yellow gold in color, with a medium weight bouquet of green apple, pear and white grape aromas. It has a medium-full body, and a well-balanced palate, featuring rich citrus flavors with a touch of pear. A light tinge of sweetness appears heading into a long, lush finish. ($9)
**** (89) 2003 Chateau Tahbilk Marsanne (Australia). This is a light to medium bodied wine with wonderful fresh cut grass on the nose. Green apples and pears fill your mouth with hints of grapefruit and lemongrass. ($14)
**** (89) 2003 Domaine de Pouy Cote de Gascogne (France). Fresh and clean on the palate, showing flavors of green apple and pears, complemented by a nice touch of toasty oak. ($8)
**** (88) 2003 Rulo Columbine (Washington State). A pretty white with ripe lemon and mineral character; medium body with intense fresh finish. ($13)
**** (88) 2002 Chateau Grand Bateau Blanc (France). Sauvignon blanc and semillon marry well in this bottling; a rich, aromatic nose; buttery vanilla flavors harmonize with exotic fruit flavors. ($12)
**** (88) 2003 Folie a Deux, Ménage a Trois White (California). A blend of chardonnay (46%), muscat (38%) and chenin blanc (16%) that’s surprisingly delicious; plenty of fruit without becoming sweet; medium to full bodied; a nice aperitif. ($11)
**** (87) 2003 Jewel Chardonnay (California). Offering aromas of peaches with rich citrus flavors; a crisp finish. ($10)
**** (88) 2003 Duck Pond Pinot Gris (Oregon). A really delightful white wine. Light, yet silky, crisp yet warm fruit flavors abound with a clean, long, dry finish. ($12)
**** (86) 2003 Jewel Viognier (California). Nice rendition of this Rhone Valley grape, with white peaches and melons offset by good mineral notes and bright acidity; citrus and lychee are delicately rendered in the finish. ($11)
**** (88) 2002 Trefethen Napa Valley Dry Reisling (California). Floral, showing jasmine and grape hyacinths; freshly zested lime and tart green apple mingles in front of a solid background of ripe citrus. ($15)
**** (88) 2001 De Loach Chardonnay (California). Bright color, apple and pear aromas, full-bodied, creamy, apple and pear flavors with a tropical fruit finish. Good acidity. ($14)
**** (88) 2003 Antinori, Santa Cristina Sangiovese (Italy). Ruby red in color; on the nose, intense bouquet of mature fruits; on the palate harmonious and very pleasing. ($9)
**** (88) 2004 Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc (South Africa). Pale straw with a mild bouquet exhibiting some light, tart citrus aromas. Medium bodied and crisp, it shows off a nice interplay of tangerine, pear, lemon and apple flavors. It turns fuller toward the finish, which is of medium-length and quite refreshing. ($11)
**** (88) 2003 Stella Pinot Grigio Umbria (Italy). Pale yellow, with a fresh, zippy bouquet of green apple with some faint citrus aromas lingering in the background. Light and crisp on the palate, it displays ripe apple and wispy citrus flavors, with a touch of lemony acidity keeping things crisp and clean throughout. Quite nice at this price. ($8.50)
**** (86) BV Coastal Estates Chardonnay 2002 (California). Strong, fresh apple-citrus aromas with a hint of vanilla; medium- to full-bodied with a creamy texture and round, succulent flavors; ripe apple fruit combined with hints of green almonds and pear in the finish. ($10)
**** (88) 2003 Black Wing Chardonnay (Australia). Medium gold, with a light bouquet possessing some subtle, sweet fruit aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, it is ripe and rich on the palate, with a buttery cloak to its soft citrus flavors. A touch of oak peaks in heading into the long, lush finish. ($10)
**** (88) 2003 Elk Cove Pinot Gris (Oregon). Rich, full mouthfeel, with pears being the predominate fruit. Lush, but still packing enough acidity to carry the fruit through to the finish, which is long and somewhat off-dry. ($15)
**** (88) 2003 Villa Puccini Pinot Grigio (Italy). From Fruili, lots of honey, almonds and fresh pears with low acid and good structure allowing it to work well with linguine in a white clam sauce, Chicken Florentine and grilled shrimp. ($11)
**** (88) 2003 Sartarelli Verdicchio del Castelli di Jesi (Chile). An amazing value and amazing verdicchio, with smooth and layered fruit suggesting pear, peach with almond nuttiness, quite deep and well balanced, with a complex finish. ($10)
**** (88) 2003 Burgans Albarino Rias Baixas (Spain). Another fine wine from this producer with deep, ripe apple fruit with high-toned suggestions of apricot; on the palate, the wine is smooth with mineral notes beneath the fruit, good acidity, and a long persistent finish that is clean and crisp. ($13)
**** (88) 2003 Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand). Bright, tangy and ripe melon characteristics with flavors of gooseberry and citrus followed by a clean refreshing finish. ($11)
**** (87) Maculan Pino & Toi IGT Veneto Bianco (Italy). Made from pinot bianco, pinot grigio and tocai, a refreshing wine; light-bodied featuring peaches and pears; a crisp finish. ($10)
**** (87) 2003 Villa Maria, Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand). Freshly cut honeydew, green melon and pineapple, over freshly clipped grass; zingy white grapefruit, peach and melon refresh; finishing crisp and squeaky clean. ($13)
**** (87) 2002 Stephen Vincent Sauvignon Blanc (California). Made from a blend of 95% sauvignon blanc and 5% chardonnay; solid acids and fruit from the sauvignon blend nicely with the richness of the chardonnay; a complex and refreshing wine. ($10)
**** (87) 2002 Trumpeter Chardonnay (Argentina). Nice apple and pear fruit and creamy toasted oak flavors; medium-bodied with good depth of fruit; tasty by itself or matched with creamy pasta or seafood dishes. ($9)
**** (87) 2004 White Knot Chardonnay (Australia). From South Australia’s McClaren vale, a crisp, clean white; well balanced featuring citrus and stone fruit. ($11)
**** (87) 2003 Columbia Winery Cellarmaster Riesling (Washington State). Fruity aroma; slightly sweet with honey and pear flavors; a clean finish. ($11)
**** (87) 2003 Cousino Macul Chardonnay (Chile). Apples and pears are the keynotes in this well made wine with a lively upfront fruit introduction and a smooth and easy finish; good structure and a good match with seafood, chicken and pasta in cream sauces. ($11)
**** (86) 2002 Geyser Peak Sonoma Chardonnay (California). A bright fruit-driven wine with a crisp acid kick; aromas of pear and tropical fruit burst out of the glass; ripe melon, pear and green apple on the palate harmonize with balanced oak and crispness. ($15)
**** (86) 2001 Armand Roux Verdillac Blanc (France). Sauvignon-semillon blend with a floral nose and pleasing apple, melon and herbal flavors. ($10)
**** (86) 2003 Benziger Fume Blanc North Coast (California). Citrus aromas followed by citrus flavors; a medium long, clean finish. ($10)
**** (86) 2002 Ca’ del Solo Big House White (California). ($10)
**** (86) 2004 Famega Vinho Verde (Portugal). A summertime favorite, adorned with cool and refreshing lemon-lime flavors that are light on the palate. ($7)
THREE STARS
*** (85) 2003 Clos du Bois North Coast Sauvignon Blanc (California). Light, silver-green color; aromas of fresh melon and grapefruit with notes of toasty oak; clean and crisp flavors of grapefruit, fresh-cut grass and pear; medium bodied; refreshing mouth feel; long, clean finish. ($11)
*** (85) 2003 Cartlidge and Brown Chardonnay (California). Consistency is the trademark of this winery, and this chardonnay has a good core of fruit with notes of orange blossoms and cloves; delightful when matched with lighter dishes and fresh salads. ($10)
*** (85) 2002 Concannon Central Coast Chardonnay (California). Fruity aroma; tropical fruit flavors, with a touch of oak; a medium finish and a good buy. ($9)
*** (85) 2003 Las Brisas Rueda Bianco (Spain). This up-and-coming appellation is changing the world’s mind about Spanish whites; using the verdejo and sauvignon blanc grapes, here is ripe grapefruit, citrus fruit with bright acid, stony, minerally, and hints of mint in the long, juicy finish. ($10)
CORRECTION
In the last issue, we inadvertently dropped the following review from our Retailer Wine Selections featuring red wines $15 and under.
**** (87) 2003 Jacob’s Creek Shiraz 2003 (Australia). Great aromas of spicy pepper and licorice and wild blackberry; medium-bodied with flavors of plum and cherry fruit that has a nice soft finish. ($7)