Wine sales explode in the period between Thanksgiving and New Year’s, and some categories, like dessert wines and sparklers, are more popular now than any other time. So, we’ve given our national wine panel free rein to select any wine — Port, sherry, Champagne, zinfandel, chardonnay — that fits the profile of a celebratory, year-end wine. As always, these selections include brief tasting notes, a numerical rating and the wine’s suggested retail price (which varies market to market).
FIVE STARS
***** (95) Bollinger Brut La Grand Anee 1997 (France). Great depth and complexity on the palate; notes of vanilla, ginger, nuts and yeast; a beautiful long finish; a stunning wine. ($115)
***** (95) Flowers Andreen-Gale Cuvee Chardonnay 2001 (California). An elegant and alive chardonnay that boasts pear, apple and fig; subtle oak, perfectly balanced; pair with lobster. ($50)
***** (95) Murphy-Goode Snake Eyes Ellis Ranch Zinfandel 2002 (California) This is a big powerful zin with firm tannins, black berry, pepper and spice; long, long powerful finish; for those who have prime rib or a roast. ($39)
***** (94) Bussola, “TB,” Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, DOC, 2000 (Veneto, Italy). Made from dried grapes, this super rich and lush red is just the ticket for rich holiday meals as well as blue cheese. ($90)
***** (94) Krug “Grande Cuvee” Brut Champagne M.V. (France). The mother of all champagnes; the multi-vintage is a blend of vintage wines married together perfectly; dry, full bodied with biscuity notes and impeccable finesse. ($125)
***** (94) Jordan Russian River Chardonnay 2003 (Calif-ornia). This 2003 takes the typical apple and pear flavors of Jordan’s vineyards and adds a tropical and buttery feel in the back end; bold and profound in its fruit and vanilla, allowing it to be matched with salmon steaks, sushi grade tuna, roast leg of lamb, turkey and pork loins. ($23)
***** (94) Henry’s Drive Reserve Padthaway Shiraz 2003 (Australia). An intense and complex, gorgeous wine with rich black fruit, berries and spice; perfect with lamb. ($60)
***** (93) Domaine Drouhin Laurene Pinot Noir 2001 (Oregon). A great depth of red and black fruit flavors, with lots of vibrancy and balance; a wine with a great spirit, which jumps out of the glass and coats the palate with sweet fruit and the softness of silk. ($55)
***** (93) 7 Deadly Zins 2003 (California). Zin and turkey’s a no-brainer; rich, deep, chocolaty, packed with ripe black fruits; full, long finish. ($18)
***** (93) Louis Jadot Nuits St. George 2002 (France). This stellar performer from the heralded 2002 vintage best displays what good pinot noir is all about; the licorice, cassis and mellow soft red fruit is layered and harmonious throughout the palate; serve it up with confidence at family gatherings and the red wine to serve with turkey, chicken and rack of lamb dishes. ($37)
***** (92) Oliver Leflaive Batard Montrachet 2003 (France). Bold and rich with flavors of butterscotch and almond; soft, mouth-filling finish. ($169)
***** (92) Betz Cabernet Sauvignon Pere de Famille 2002 (Washington State). Rich and plush showing flavors of currant, cherry and blackberry; hints of spice mingle and linger on soft tannins. ($45)
***** (92) Anselmi, “I Capitelli,” Monforte d’Alpone 2000 (Veneto, Italy). A Soave dessert wine, with flavors of honeyed apricots and florals; unctuous and intense. ($27; 375 ml/half bottle)
***** (92) Chaleur Estate Blanc 2002 (Washington State) This complex, hearty blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc drinks like a red; it kicks off with scents of petrol, butterscotch, corn and cilantro, and then develops full-bodied tastes of citrus and tart tropical fruits before its long, crisp, lemon-rind finish; try it with turkey breast and mashed potatoes. ($34)
***** (92) Earthworks Shiraz 2003 (Australia). This Shiraz is spicy and enormous on the palate, bursting with black raspberry and red cherry fruit that is nicely complemented by toasty oak and hints of peppery spice; nice long finish. ($17)
***** (92) Taylor Fladgate 20 yr. Tawny Port (Oporto, Portugal). Rich elegant flavors of dried apricots, honey, nuts, spices and vanilla. ($30)
***** (92) Clos St. Michel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2003 (France). Grenache blanc, clairette, rousanne and bourbolenc produced in small quantities at low temperature fermentation produce an extra ordinary treat for holiday meals; strong, fruity and well balanced, combining the aromas of toasted bread, bee’s wax and white fruits; this wine goes best with fish in rich sauces and white meats. ($25)
***** (92) Rufus Stone Shiraz ‘McLaren Vale’ 2002 (Australia). Opulent, full bodied and viscous; a soaring bouquet of blackberry liqueur and layers of jammy black fruit flavors, accented by black pepper, chocolate and spice notes; fabulous now, and has the stuff to age 3-5 years. ($25)
***** (92) Muirwood Pinot Noir 2003 (California). Easy, lush and filled with spicy red and black fruits; lightly toasted plum and cherry flavors are surprisingly complex and long on the finish; great with grilled salmon on a cedar plank, or poultry of any variety. ($13)
***** (92) Two-Up Shiraz 2003 (Australia). Soft, plush red raspberry and ripe black cherry flavors are accented by lighter spicy notes in this medium-bodied beauty; named after a betting coin toss game commonly played in Australia, purchasing a bottle of this is absolutely no gamble. ($15)
***** (92) Boutari Moschofilero Dry White Wine 2004 (Greece). Refreshing dry white with enticing citrus, floral and melon aromas; very crisp and well-balanced. ($14)
***** (92) Montes Alpha Syrah 2002 (Chile). Spicy and intense with a long, delightful finish. ($16)
***** (92) Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Lamy-Pillot 2000 (France). Golden hue with a floral nose; a touch of vanilla and oak complete it; velvety, rich and wonderful balance; the finish has a hint of mineral with citrus overtones. ($40)
***** (92) Cape Diamond Merlot 2003 (Oregon). Rich ruby/purple, with a medium-full bouquet that displays a lightly spicy edge to the rich black fruit aromas; medium dry and full-bodied on the palate, it slowly unfolds to reveal ripe cherry, black raspberry, a touch of cassis and a hint of mocha spice; great balance and a long finish that shows off some brightness in the aftertaste; very versatile with food. ($13)
***** (92) Niebaum-Coppola Blancaneaux 2003 (California). Beautiful aromas of orange blossom, pineapple, honeysuckle, peach and light oak presage flavors of apricot, citrus and lemon rind; this bone-dry, minerally, restrained blend of marsanne, rousanne and viognier has gracious balance, bright acidity and a layered finish that lasts for many minutes; would be delicious with a roast turkey with oyster stuffing. ($36)
***** (92) Mantanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (California). Crisp and even, smooth grapefruit; perfect for holiday appetizers and fish; smells good, tastes good, drinks easy. ($18)